by Judy Bracken, NSC Board Member
It started with a drive through narrow winding roads with hairpin turns and steep drop offs, after which the five of us were dropped off at a station in Zermatt. No cars are allowed in the town, so taxis and electric buses are the only transportation within town. We found the station bustling with rectangular electric vehicles, drivers scurrying to load luggage in and on top of the vehicles, and blurry eyed passengers hoping they would be picked up soon. It was a sunny warm afternoon, with the striking Alps rising on all sides of Zermatt’s tiny valley. We knew that Europe was suffering a drought, and it was apparent looking at the light snow cover.
We arrived at the Hotel Alex, ahead of the larger group, as we had taken our own “pre-trip” to Chamonix the week before. We were greeted by beautifully carved wooden animals and wooden ceilings, a cozy bar with fireplaces, and smiling Swiss hotel workers.
Once checked in, we found our way through the stairways and lifts to a lovely room with a balcony and a view of the mighty Matterhorn. Later that night, our hotel concierge directed us to Whymper Stube Restaurant (Edward Whymper was the first guy to summit the Matterhorn), where we were treated to delicious cheese fondue and other Swiss food specialties. We were so excited to ski the next day!
And now the Disneyland rides begin! After securing our ski passes, we embarked on the Matterhorn Express cog railway, then a gondola and a tram to reach the top of the resort. [photo 3] This day the views were nonexistent, because it was windy and stormy, completely opposite from the day before, but we were happy to have some fresh snow. Most of us did not enjoy the whiteout conditions as we made our way down the glacier. It was difficult to tell whether you were going up or down!
That evening, we mingled at the FWSA welcome party, with fellow Nisei members Armand G. Sandy K., Carol H., Kathy F., Roland L., my roommate Elaine G., as well as others from all over the Western States. Afterward, we separated to our two hotels and then enjoyed one of five included multi-course dinners in the hotel restaurant. The Hotel Alex food was fresh, beautifully presented and delicious every night. Service was excellent; it was quite a feat to serve that many people in such a personal way. Breakfast was also included, and every day there were coffee drinks made to order, omelets, pastries, cheeses, fruit, yogurt and more. They kept us very well fed.
We enjoyed bluebird weather on nearly all the following days. Kathy had booked a full mountain guided tour for six of us on Monday, which was a perfect way to get acquainted with the three main areas, Schwarzsee, Gornergrat, Sunnegga, all with a different flavor and altitude
We found that the Matterhorn, at 4478 meters, was actually not the highest peak in the ski area; it was Monte Rosa at 4634 meters. For better snow quality and coverage, it was best to ski up as high as possible, and even with the drought, Zermatt had been staying cold so they were able to make snow and keep the resort going. Down lower it often was icy and/or slushy. It was so much fun to ski the different runs with groups of like-minded friends, with roads leading to one resort or the other, and lifts, gondolas and trams waiting to take us back up the mountain.
One day, many of us went over to the Italian side, Cervinia. We started with a group of 12, and to keep track of everyone, we formed four, 3-person “pods.” At each stop, we’d check to make sure our “pod” was there. Even so, we lost track of two skiers that day (but found them later)! It was a different view of the Matterhorn, and we found also presented a much more active weather pattern. We ran into a blustery, short-lived storm, which brought fresh snow but difficult-to-see conditions.
At the end of the day, you might find yourself at the bottom of the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise gondola, which required a short bus ride to get back into town. If you wanted to avoid the line to wait for the bus, you could jump on a taxi, and for 18 Swiss Francs take “Mr. Toad’s Wild Ride” back to your hotel. Apres ski might find us at the hotel pool or hot tub enjoying a soak.
The mountain was dotted with restaurants and huts, which usually required reservations to have sit down restaurant food served. Or you could sit outside and enjoy a draft beer when the weather was nice. The European skiers really enjoy their lengthy lunches when skiing. Another fun place to visit was the Iglu Dorf, a small hotel made of ice and snow blocks right on the mountain. There were several cozy rooms, a small restaurant and bar, nice outdoor tables and lounge chairs, all with a fantastic view of the Matterhorn.
After the week was over, many folks went on to Spain and Mallorca for the post-trip. Those of us flying back to snowy California dreamed of their exciting adventures and good times skiing in the Alps with friends. Next year, FWSA is going to Madonna di Campiglio, Italy, and in 2025 the international trip will be to Val d’Isere, France. Although we love our US skiing, there is nothing like skiing in the Alps of Europe!
